Photographing
small mammals outdoors is not unlike working with
small garden birds such as wrens and blue tits.
They are usually very fidgety and rarely keep
st ill for any length of time, so it is necessary
to use rapid, pinpoint accurate, single-point auto focus and short shutter speeds of
around 1/500 sec or less. The added difficulty
with small mammals is that they will invariably
react to the sound of a shutter going off ,
and they are extremely slow (if at all) to becoming
conditioned to it. Shoot a sequence of two or more
frames at a longish shutter speed, of say
1/125 sec, and it is likely that only the first is
going to be reasonably sharp compared to the following
ones, in which the animal will have react ed
to the shutter sound with a jerking motion,
blurring the image.
There
are a number of ways of dealing with this,
such as shooting selectively and using single
frame advance when shooting portraits. Some
cameras obviously have quieter shutters than
others, although it is oft en possible to improvise
a makeshift ‘blimp’ by wrapping the likes
of a fleece or woolen scarf around the camera
body. Mirror-less camera systems have an
obvious advantage in this resp etc.
Maintaining a reasonable working distance
from the subject can help, too. This
obviously depends on the focal length of
your lens, because there is a fine balance between
being close enough so that it appears big
enough in the frame, but not too close that you risk
disturbing the animal. Fortunately, most modern
long lenses focus fairly close, and a focal length
of 300 mm to 500 mm works best when
photographing from a distance of three to five meters from the subject . Cropped sensor cameras are a
bonus here, too.
If you
have problems getting a long lens to
focus close enough, then try using a 1.4x teleconverter
to obtain more magnification at the lens’s
minimum focusing distance. Alternatively, you
can use thin extension tubes. Canon users have
a distinct advantage here, because Canon offers up-to-date extension tubes with electrical connect ions that allow data transfer between camera and lens; this means auto-focus and exposure metering are maintained. Nikon users have to resort to the third-party extension tubes from Kenko to achieve this, but because the internal diameter of these is less than the old manual focus Nikon PK series tubes, they can cause serious vignetting with many lenses on full-frame cameras.
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