Thursday, July 2, 2015

Bicycling Beginners' Guide 4/9

Step 3: Getting Properly Seated

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One change many riders make is their saddle. Although it seems counterintuitive, you should avoid cushy saddles with lots of padding. That’s because your weight will sink through a soft model and press against the hard bottom. Instead, plan on using a firmer, narrower model common to sportier road bikes that will support your sit bones and muscles. You might initially experience soreness while your rear end acclimates to the seat, but that will subside over a week or two of riding. Not every saddle is the same, and as with a bike, you should test-ride them. This requires even more time than testing a bicycle frame: Plan on at least 25 miles of riding per saddle. Some shops offer test saddles or a 30-day return policy.

Bicycling Beginners' Guide 3/9

Step 2: Achieving The Proper Fit

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Once you have acquired a bicycle, you should consider getting a professional bike fitting. In this process, an expert will measure your proportions and flexibility and make adjustments to ensure you have the most comfortable and efficient ride possible based on the kind of riding you want to do. The fitter may swap out some components, such as the stem, handlebar, and seatpost.

Bicycling Beginners' Guide 2/9

Step 1: Installing Yourself On a Bike

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Finding the right bike is critical. First, think about how you’ll use the bike and your budget.

Then:
  a) Find a local bike shop with a good reputation. Plan to ask lots of questions. If the staff doesn’t listen, treat you respectfully, or answer all your questions, go elsewhere.
  b) Do some research before setting out. Components and frame materials vary by performance, weight, and durability, so it’s wise to educate yourself in advance.
  c) Buy the highest-quality bike you can afford—that is, the one with the best parts and frame materials. It will pay you back in terms of performance and comfort.
  d) Test ride. Different brands may have identical components or frame materials in similar price ranges, so it comes down to fit and feel. Look for gearing that matches the kind of riding you plan to do, and a comfortable saddle. (More on that later.) Plan on spending 20 to 40 minutes per bike.
  e) Ultimately, choose the bike that fits best instead of the one that’s the best deal. Shop employees are trained to figure out which frame size and seat height are suitable.

What it will cost
 • $500 to $700 Expect entry-level components; a frame made of no-frills steel or aluminum; basic wheels
 • $1,000 to $1,500 Mid- or entry-level parts; a midquality steel or aluminum frame, maybe with carbon fiber mixed in; lighter, stronger wheels
 • $1,500 to $3,000 Upper-level components; a frame made of some high-quality aluminum or steel or midlevel carbon; lighter wheels

Bicycling Beginners' Guide 1/9

Getting Started

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Note that this assembly project will be much like others you’ve probably taken on in the past: Just like the time you built that big Ikea bookcase, there may be some trial and error involved. But if you follow these basic instructions, you will have yourself up and spinning in no time.

If the Bike Fits—Buy It

While there is no universal method for fitting a bicycle to the rider, fit theories do agree on most things, and proper training and equipment help bike-shop workers and fitters do their job consistently well. You'll have an easier time shopping if you know a few benchmark measurements.


Start with figuring your frame size and seat height, and then, when you have the bike, determine your proper cleat placement, saddle position and handlebar reach, in that order.


Reach to Handlebar
This is the most variable of all measurements, as it depends greatly on your flexibility. You want a slight angle at the elbow when your hands are on the hoods or drops, but you shouldn't force yourself to bend double to get it. On a new bike, ask the shop to leave the steerer tube long and add 2 inches of spacers under the stem. Move the spacers above or below the stem to fine-tune your fit, and have the shop cut the steerer later, if needed.

Frame Size
In socks, place a thin hardcover book, spine up, between your legs with about the same upward pressure a saddle produces. Measure your inseam, from the book's spine to the floor, in centimeters. Multiply that number by 0.65; the result is your approximate road frame size. For example, 81cm x 0.65 = 52.65-a 52 or 53cm frame (sizes are the seat-tube length). Note that compact sizing uses a virtual seat-tube length, so don't go by the stated size unless it has the same virtual size. To convert to inch sizing, divide by 2.54. For mountain bikes, subtract 10-12cm from your road size.

Saddle Position
The front of your forward knee should be directly over the ball of your foot when the pedal is at the 3 o'clock position. Check this with a plumb line. If the line doesn't pass the front of the pedal axle, move your seat forward or back on the rails until it does. Your seat should be level, or point at most a couple of degrees up or down. Check it with a carpenter's level.

Seat Height
Your knee should have a slight bend in it at the bottom of your pedal stroke. (The bottom is when the crankarm is parallel to the seat tube, not perpendicular to the ground.) To check this, in cycling shoes, pedal unclipped with your heels on the pedals. You should barely maintain contact with the pedal at the bottom of the stroke, without rocking your pelvis. Measure the distance between the bottom bracket and the top of the seat. This is your seat height. It should be very close to the product of your inseam (in centimeters) multiplied by 0.883.

Cleat Placement
Mount your cleats on your shoes so that the ball of your foot is directly over the pedal spindle for maximum power transfer. Unless you have an unusual stride or stance (splayfoot, etc.), point the tips of the cleats at the tips of the shoes for a neutral pedaling stance to start out. Pay attention to your pedaling style on the first couple of rides and adjust as needed-this is one place where professional fit advice may be worth the cost to help avoid injury.

Smart Shifting

Cyclists are weak. No, we're not singling anyone out—even the fastest pros have a maximum power output that's roughly the equivalent, in horsepower, to a Go-Ped scooter. Gears let us maximize our low-power motors on the bike; specifically, being able to choose a gear that keeps us in our cadence comfort zone, the point at which we can pedal seemingly indefinitely without flailing around or succumbing to a muscle-scorching slow grind.

If you really want to rock the gears, though, you need to know when to shift outside your comfort zone, into a slightly higher (harder) or lower (easier) gear, even momentarily, to suit what you hope to accomplish on the bike. While the old adage "shift early, shift often," still applies, you should add "shift smart" to the mix. Here's how to do it in four common situations.

The Situation: A long, gradual road climb
The Shift: This is usually the easiest shifting situation, after flat terrain. At the base of the climb, you should be in your comfort-zone gear--it varies from rider to rider, but for most of us it's in the 90-revolutions-per-minute range. When your cadence starts to slip, ease the pressure off the pedals slightly and shift into an easier gear. Remember, shifting in the front means a big resistance change; rear shifts are for fine-tuning your cadence. If you need to stand, shift up a cog or two in the rear; the slightly harder gear will allow a smooth transition. Shift between these sitting and standing gears as you make your way up the climb.

The Situation: A moderately steep, twisty, rocky descent on your mountain bike; the trail ends smoothly before transitioning to a long climb
The Shift: This is a heavy shifting situation. On the way down the slope, you'll want to shift around to stay on the harder-geared side of your comfort zone, so you can power out of corners and over most obstacles. (But don't stray too far—if you get hung up on something, you'll want to be in a gear you can manage at a slower pace.) During the transition, soft pedal and shift to the lower gear you'll need to start the climb—you want to be in your comfort zone at the beginning of the uphill.

The Situation: A group road ride that's heading into a sprint-finish area
The Shift: The biggest mistake most of us make in just-for-fun sprints is telegraphing our move--we suddenly (and noisily) shift into much higher gears, alerting everyone to our intentions. Surreptitious presprint shifting is partially done in advance (with the front chainring) and partially on the fly--you need to be in only a slightly harder gear to start, as upshifts in the rear can be managed after you jump. Move up one gear at a time, spinning out each gear (meaning faster than your comfort zone) before shifting again.

The Situation: A rock-strewn, technical climb on your mountain bike
The Shift: Use too low a gear on a loose, technical climb and you'll spin the rear wheel, lose momentum, and come to a halt. To avoid that, climb in a slightly higher-than-comfort-level gear, which helps the rear tire grip the terrain and gives you leeway for the short power bursts needed to ascend larger rocks or log step-ups. Don't expect to reach the top of the climb without feeling your muscles burn—in a good way, of course.

Find Your Fighting Weight

You probably know at least one person who spent hundreds of dollars to shave a few grams off his bike—and would have been better served shedding pounds from his own frame. That’s because one of the keys to cycling performance is power-to-weight ratio (watts produced to kilograms of body weight). Whether you’re training for an MS 150 or the Masters World Championships, a leaner, fitter body is going to travel faster. However, weight isn’t the only factor in the equation (see “Fit or Fat,” below), and dropping too many pounds could impede your progress. Here is a simple system to determine—and achieve—the riding weight that’s best for you.

Step on the Scale
A unit that measures body weight and composition, such as the Tanita BC-577, can provide valuable feedback. (Home scales aren’t the most precise measure of body ­composition, but they give you a relatively accurate measure of gain or loss if you take regular readings under similar conditions.) Weigh in every Monday morning. Wake up, take care of business, strip down, and step on the scale. Record the data in a training log.

Keep a Food Journal
Whether you use pen and paper or an app like SparkPeople or MealSnap, seeing what you eat can reveal glaring problem areas in your diet. Record all food and beverages you consume, along with the time of day. Then, use the 3Rs ­strategy:
   1) Reduce your intake of processed, calorically dense foods.
   2) Replace less-healthy foods with more-nutritious substitutes, such as whole-wheat pasta instead of refined.
   3) Refuse the foods that do the most damage to your health and performance—think fast food such as chicken nuggets and “venti”-size coffee drinks.

Test Yourself
Every fourth Monday, do a field test. Find a flat-to-rolling stretch of road that’s free of stop signs and excessive traffic or opt for a steady climb. Warm up with an easy 30- to 45-minute effort, then do a 10-minute time trial. Use your data tools of choice to record as many of these metrics as you can: distance, speed, average heart rate, and average power. Tracking your body weight, composition, and field-test data over several months will help you find your optimal performance weight: the leanest body composition that produces your best field-test results.

BMC ALR01 Aluminum Road Bike

At this year’s Tour de France, American Tejay van Garderen will attack the longest climbs in the Alps on a BMC Teammachine SLR01. It’s an ethereal carbon climber, but even the lower-priced models in the line, like the SLR03, cost several thousands of dollars. To put that performance within the reach of more cyclists, BMC developed the ALR01 aluminum frame, which is based on its top race bikes.

The model comes in four options that share the same fork and tube shapes as BMC’s carbon Teammachine SLR models. The only difference is that it has a 1cm taller headtube and a slightly longer wheelbase. Just like its more expensive sisters, the ALR03 has an offset seat tube, massive downtube size, and asymmetrical chainstays, which combine to create a snappy ride under full power. The full-carbon tapered fork retains the hallmark radical tube shapes BMC is known for.


BMC claims a painted 54 cm frame weighs a respectable 1,295 grams. All four models feature a full complement of Shimano components, including cranks. The range starts with the ALR01 with Shimano Ultegra components and costs $2099. Versions with Shimano’s 105 ($1,599), Tiagra ($1,399), and Sora ($1,099) groups are also available. All four models are available immediately from BMC USA dealers.

Friday, June 26, 2015

Cinderella

Preparation Time: A few min.
Cooking Time: Nil.
Makes 1 tall glass. 
Ingredients

2 to 3 tsp raspberry syrup
1 tsp lemon juice
3 tbsps finely chopped mixed fruits (pineapple,pears and apples)
1 bottle lemonade or any lemon drink
1 lemon slice

Method 

1.   Put the raspberry syrup and lemon juice in a tall serving glass.
2.   Add the fruit and fill up with lemonade.
3.   Top with the lemon slice.
4.   Serve cold.

Saturday, June 20, 2015

Don"t You Look At Me So Reproachfully.



Don"t you look at me so reproachfully.
I do not  bear malice to you,
But  I like your appearance awfully
And your seeming modesty,  too

Yes, you seem to be openhearted,
And I"d rather  be glad to see
How a fox pretending departed
Catches crows like you want to catch me.

Try to  catch me, I won"t  be daunted
Mind, you don"t have your ardour restrained!
Many girls of your kind have haunted
Stumbling over my heart that waned.

It"s not you that I love, my dearie,
You"re only an echo, a shade,
I imagine a different  girlie,
Oh so beautiful blue-eyed maid!

Though she isn"t so humble-looking
And  appears to be rather cool,
Her majestic manner of walking
Has rekindled the depth of my soul.

She"s a girl that cannot be cheated,
Notwithstanding your will she"ll entice,
Whereas you can"t be possibly  fitted
In my heart with embellished lies.

Though I scorn you,  yet like a layman
I will shyly and openly say:
If there weren"t any  hell and heaven
Man would think something up anyway.

December 1st, 1925